Cape Cod & Boston

After the weekend's hecticness, I had a whole 8 hour turnaround in New York (hello bed) before another bus to Provincetown in Cape Cod. Well, another two buses and 4 hour layover to Provincetown. 12 hours of travel. Lucky I'm so good at sleeping. After the layover in Hyannis - for gluten free burger and beer delicious win - I arrived in beautiful P'town (we're on a nickname basis now). I stayed right on the west end so it felt like being out on the edge of the world, the coastal edge of the world. I slept for eternity, so the first evening was a nice and quiet one.

Despite the feeling of being so remote, it was only a 10 minute walk from the hotel into the colourful heart of town. It turns out the P'town International Film Festival was on at the same time, so there was a lively vibe going on (to counter all the bus tour groups), which was nice to get into. I rented a bike for the visit, and did a slow meander down the main drag for gluten free delicious, seafood and a look into galleries and boutiques. I popped up the top of the tower, for the nice views and things, and down the jetties and beaches. Nice, taking it easy, hanging out at the Hammock Store on the waterfront.

But who likes things to be easy and nice? Not me, apparently. Because then I voluntarily took myself on the epic bike trail through the sand dunes. Think about sand dunes. Sand dunes =  hills. OK, sure it was beautiful, so quiet too. But the thing is, you ride for eternity and arrive out at the sites and serenity and things - and then you have to ride back for eternity. My legs! I can't feel my legs!
 

 

Back in the safety of the land of the living, I headed off to opening night of the Film Festival. I went to the lesbian Shorts screening, "I'll have what she's having", which were all really excellent but two stood out for total hilarity. I felt pretty hip and cool (I think saying things like 'hip' and 'cool' nullify my feeling that way). It was kind of cold by this stage, so I warmed up with a nice tequila in the pub to round off the day.

The next morning in P'town was uneventful and involved home-made fudge in a sunny spot on the beach before I took the fast ferry to Boston. I made the most of a beautiful day and walked through town, through the park and down Newbury Street, to my hostel. This was a good choice, because Friday was pretty wet. Having learned my lesson in Ithaca, I purchased a rather over-sized bright yellow poncho. I may have looked ridiculous but I was very dry, thank you. I tried to do the Freedom Trail, just following that red line with my iPhone out. But, well it turns out you need to have at least some understanding of American history to appreciate these things. I was a bit confused, kind of lost and couldn't see so well under the bright yellow poncho. I ended up finding a corner to phone Liz with a bunch of embarrassing questions and got a quick crash course in American history. I am not going to go into detail about how little I knew, it is too embarrassing, but thank you Liz. I didn't do the whole thing, because I did each thing so slowly having to ask questions/read/wikipedia at each point. I ended up getting really into it, and learned lots of new things (new to me). Yay. I completed the day of learning with a trip to the library. Nerd.

I picked maybe the best time to come to Boston - being that their ice hockey team just won the Stanley Cup (woo go Bruins). Better than being in Vancouver, that's for sure. So the whole place was pumping, even ancient churches had flags and banners out to celebrate the victory. I decided to take a little time out from my active disinterest in men's sports of all kinds and get amongst it, not that there really was much choice. I ditched the trip to Harvard and headed into the heart of the parade route in the morning. An Australian accent, short stature and curiosity can do wonders. I ended up right at the front, in the thick of some very happy Boston locals and in front of three fully decked-out fans. I hope I end up on TV. The parade was incredible. I don't know how else to describe it. I got so into it! Everyone knows I don't get into these things, and here I was screaming and cheering with the best of them, hanging over the railings. My face hurt from it all. I was a bit nervous at whether things might get out of hand (i.e. Vancouver) but I couldn't have had a more positive experience. Everyone was just so happy and excited, even the policeman in front of us was so nice and friendly that one guy said it made him want to get arrested.

 

 

Trying to leave the parade was a whole other adventure, it was like wading through gravy to get to the bus station. The whole city was blocked and shut-down for the parade, and then suddenly a sea of Bruins fans (aka the entire population of Boston and surrounds) were released out on the streets headed in all different directions. Kind of insane, but I made it OK.

Lost in Tall Corn

Traveling solo is awesome. No seriously, I have a great time in every place - even with the odd mishap or two - and always meet interesting and lovely people. Sometimes the mishaps can lead to even more excellent new adventures. Like the weekend I just had. This weekend in the Finger Lakes, upstate New York, was so bizarre/crazy-good that I am pretty certain whatever I write here is not going to capture it. So when you're reading my shit-house story-telling below, times it by 10 awesomes.

NB: Please forgive the constant changing of tenses. Whatever.

I headed up to Seneca Falls in the Finger Lakes on Friday, with the sole purpose of visiting the National Women's Historic Site (which was so good!) and maybe throwing in some delicious food and some nice waterholes on the side. Just one night, to see women's stuff. I just need you to remember these important points of the original plan before you get sidetracked with me. I got the bus at the crack of dawn upstate (hands up who is surprised to hear I slept the whole way, anybody?), and arrived in Ithaca to collect my hire car and be on my merry way up the lake. I had a tremendous time at the Women's Hall of Fame, National Women's Historic Site (I was the only person in the tour, so it ended up being a nice chat) and then Elizabeth Cady Stanton's house for a tour. I was engrossed for hours, and really I was going to write so many things about these sites in my blog before the weekend happened and I got distracted by shiny things...

After the Women Rock tour I was driving back to Ithaca via waterholes (to do list item number 2: tick), and I think I was on a bit of a Woman-Power Buzz. I was heading down Cayuga Lake, and there on the side of the road was a red barn winery that just looked like "America". I was like a moth to a flame - must see the America Barn (or, most likely, must try wines)! Naturally, after 10 minutes or so of wine-tasting and chit-chatting with my new friend Andy, I end up behind the bar helping him do tastings for a group of teachers on a girl's weekend away. 

SOLO TRAVELING TIP 1: When nice teachers try and give you their number in-case-of-emergency, take it. Do not test fate and insist that you're fine, totally independent and what could possibly go wrong?

The winery closed up for tastings, I was still hanging about (I was invited to, I swear) with a continuously topped-up glass in my hand and three new friends. We headed out to dinner and drinks in Trumansburg, at Hazelnut Kitchen. Most delicious dinner, by the way. Highlights included cheeses, stopping for a deer to cross the road, requesting 80's tunes on the jukebox and getting seriously into sing-alongs on the way home. This was also when the metaphor of being 'lost in tall corn' was first used to describe my style of travel - basically it is like being in a field of tall corn, you can't see where you are or what lays ahead, you might end up somewhere great, or you might end up somewhere bad but you just go with it. I think it is a concept only known in Tim's family, but I like it away.

The next morning I woke-up to sunrise over Cayuga Lake out the window, which was a good start to a really ridiculous day. I tried to get back on track with all the things I was meant to be doing, like returning my hire car on time. I spent some time in Ithaca Commons, in town, while my phone was kindly being charged in a shop. Oh, also gluten-free waffles. Heavenly. Anyway, then I take the bus to Cornell University to check out the Plantations/botanical gardens.

This goes well, until Armageddon arrives...

And because I'm in the middle of the plantations aka the middle of nowhere (see the buildings way in the distance?), I get caught in Armageddon rain and am soaked. As in, someone-pushed-me-in-the-lake type of soaked. Which would be fine if I hadn't packed so light that I had no change of clothes. Or if the starbucks had had a hand dryer or if I had more appropriate footwear.

But none of this was the case. So I'm out in the streets catching pneumonia, trying to get back to the bus station in time for my bus back to New York. Which I did. I did get to the bus station in time for my bus, I just want that to be known. But I'm wet, see, and I'm about to embark on a 5 hour bus trip in Siberia (why must they over-aircondition the buses?) and the guy at the bus station says yeah of course you have time to run across the road to get socks! the bus is running late! go for it! Lies. Absolute lies. I did get really great organic-wool socks from the co-op across the street (Greenstar Coop is the best). Then my life turns into one of those really awkward comedy-of-errors films that I can't sit through for the cringe factor. I come out and the bus is there! It's on time! And I'm running down the street, still soaked, but of course the bus just takes off. I had a small rant at the bus station guy (you said it was late! you lied!). Here are the lowlights: the next bus wasn't until the morning, my phone was about to die (aaaand I don't have a charger), all the hotels were booked out for Cornell University reunion weekend, I'm wet, the car hire has closed already AND the only person I know doesn't own a cell phone or have Facebook. That is not 'quirky'. It is downright irresponsible and shouldn't be allowed! Lucky I'm industrious. So the guy at the bus charges my phone, I call the winery and two angels are sent to my rescue - Jamie and Stephen.

The Cockpit. Well, what to say? I had the best time with Jamie, Stephen and Nicole (angels/new BFFs) who so kindly took me under their wings and let me stay over. I had a shower, dried my clothes, drank lots of wine, went out in Ithaca and just about moved in permanently. Highlights of the Cockpit: being awarded a Giraffe, the magic dress and shoes, late-night eggs and stale corn chips, piggybacks, Collegetown Bagels, invention of new dance moves, a shared tendency to over-share and general all-round love. Wait, why did I leave?

 

I did hang around for an extra night, but I was picked up and taken back up the lake with my Friday night friends. I was very sad to say farewell to the Cockpit. We spent the night down at a cabin on the lake with a bunch of their buddies (I like the term buddy, everyone uses it here), for a BBQ of local delicious. Yum. It was here that I also finally fulfilled all of my American adventure must-dos - yep, we played beer pong and flip cup. I was a happy Aussie.

 

 
Finally, on Monday evening, I got the bus back to New York just in time to spend the final hour of the day with Charlie for his birthday. Of course, I slept the whole trip. So after all of that, I still have no idea what the scenery is like.

How could a weekend away be any better? See what can happen when you're lost in tall corn? Bad luck can turn into good and flying solo can lead to new besties. I do think maybe I need to be more organised, but I always seem to land on my feet. Oh, and my camera stopped working for a while there (hence all the Hipstamatics) but it's all good now. Good and bad luck, in equal measure.

Anyways. Thank you Mel, Tim, Andy, Susie, Jamie, Stephen and Nicole for an awesome weekend :)

Puppy!

Meet the new kid on the block: Bennett. My (dog) nephew!

(I am really proud of this photo! It only took my a gazillion photos to get it. 

Liz thinks I might send him blind with the flash so I am easing off)

[Insert big squeal at how cute he is]

Liz and Charlie just got him. He wasn't an impulse buy or anything - there's been many long weeks waiting for him - it just wasn't my news to share. But now he is here! Puppy!

Summer in the Hudson River Valley and Catskills

After the beautiful Memorial Day long weekend, I took off on my next summer destination: Hudson Valley River and the Catskills. I was pretty impressed with myself for making a 7am train to get up north to Poughkeepsie (I still can't say this right, don't you think it should be poo-keep-see?). 

I rented a car in Poughkeepsie - by myself - what an adult. Being just those few months under the magic age of 25 though, renting a car is pretty expensive. But it is the only way to get around. I took off at a snail's pace to the first stop, a whole 10 minutes down the road, to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA, haha no it is), which is a cooking school. Apparently the "the world's premier culinary college". The grounds there are beautiful, so I took myself on a little walk around before an early lunch at The American Bounty. The Bounty is one of a few restaurants on the campus and they are all completely staffed by students, who are placed in the different roles for a few weeks as part of their degrees. This is amazing, especially as a gluten-free, because they're all learning and they actually want you to ask loads of difficult questions and be extremely particular about the food. They even made me my very own gluten free bread roll! You aren't allowed to tip, the food is delicious but considerably cheap and there are four or five wait staff per table. You can also peek in at the classes and the restaurant kitchens (no really, they have glass windows so you can have a good gawk). 

 

I took my full and fat self a little further down the road to the Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site at Val Kill, where I did a guided tour. The tour was great, except I think they expected you to be all down with American history and politics, because there were a lot of jokes and name-dropping that got everyone guffawing but I had no idea what they were talking about. Still, a great tour about a very remarkable woman. I skipped the Franklin D. Roosevelt site and went down to Rhinebeck to have a looksy around some of the Antique stores there for a bit. I'm pretty Antiqued out after the last few days actually. The biggest leg of the drive on the first day was from Rhinebeck to the B&B, where I crawled around winding country roads. Other cars hated me but I was still nervous at this point. Such beautiful scenery but I was concentrating too  much to peel my eyes off the road (probably a good thing?).

I stayed at the lovely Bed by the Stream B&B in Saugerties, which really is right on the stream. There were horses, chickens, crazy peacocks, wild tourkeys, cats and a big happy dog. And a pool. Every morning you get a big breakfast - the bright yellow eggs from the chickens, yum - at the dining room table looking out at the stream. There was an American couple staying there, so we spent about an hour every morning chatting over our enormous breakfast and looking out at that spectacular view. A great start to every day. Breakfast was so big that you just weren't hungry until dinner.

So anyway, the next day I was getting pretty comfortable driving on the right-side of the road and I went across to Hudson (more Antique stores) and then Phoenicia for some TUBING. I picked the day with the thunder storm, good one. I got dropped off with cousins Mike and Mike, who very kindly tubed with me, and we had a good old time floating down the stream. We chatted to fly fisherman on the way, who looked just like fly fisherman should look - knee-deep in the stream in their pocketed-vests and khakis - and the locals sitting on the banks. It's a shame I didn't have a waterproof camera because it really was a gorgeous trip, with the little white pollen-puffs in the air. Tubing was pretty excellent, although I hadn't really brought enough extra clothing with me so I was soaking wet with numb toes for the drive back to the B&B. I went to a really great organic, slow-food restaurant for dinner on the Wednesday night (actually I went there Tuesday as well) just down the road from the B&B called New World Home Cooking. Seriously good food. I basically licked my dinner plate and tapas-dessert plate clean. This place has gluten-free nailed, including their desserts which used mostly rice flours. Yum.

Thursday I went out to Woodstock - the Woodstock - which is a really cool place packed with hippies and artists. Lots of sculptures, little art galleries, beautiful stores with carefully selected jewellery and pieces that were quite unique. I window-shopped every inch of every store, enjoyed a well-made coffee and a home-made ice-cream sundae by a little waterfall, and wandered through a handful of the galleries that were open. I could have stayed for days, but I'd really done it all by lunchtime and had to move on

- Kaaterskill Falls! I really tested my driving getting out there. It was apparently an important site for 19th Century American painters and previously the biggest tourist site in America. You can't tell this is the case, though, by the route to get there. You park just off the highway, and then you literally hug the rocks as you walk back down the road - no path just oncoming traffic - to the beginning of the trail. The GPS also has no idea what you're talking about so you're totally on you're own here. The top f the falls are about a half mile trek up from the road, and you are right on them/in them for the whole thing. The serenity. It is probably not a wise choice to go bush walking on my own, in inappropriate foot wear, without telling anyone, and then to head off the track in search of a private spot. But look, I survived. I even dipped my feet in. 

After about an hour at the Falls, I went down to Saugerties proper where I checked out the Lighthouse, the main streeet (most amazing Chocolate store) and had an early dinner at Miss Lucy's Kitchen, which served mostly local produce and was also gluten free awesome.

Friday, it was back to New York City. I really could not get home fast enough, because we had a new addition joining us whom I was very excited to meet...