Summer in the Hudson River Valley and Catskills

After the beautiful Memorial Day long weekend, I took off on my next summer destination: Hudson Valley River and the Catskills. I was pretty impressed with myself for making a 7am train to get up north to Poughkeepsie (I still can't say this right, don't you think it should be poo-keep-see?). 

I rented a car in Poughkeepsie - by myself - what an adult. Being just those few months under the magic age of 25 though, renting a car is pretty expensive. But it is the only way to get around. I took off at a snail's pace to the first stop, a whole 10 minutes down the road, to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA, haha no it is), which is a cooking school. Apparently the "the world's premier culinary college". The grounds there are beautiful, so I took myself on a little walk around before an early lunch at The American Bounty. The Bounty is one of a few restaurants on the campus and they are all completely staffed by students, who are placed in the different roles for a few weeks as part of their degrees. This is amazing, especially as a gluten-free, because they're all learning and they actually want you to ask loads of difficult questions and be extremely particular about the food. They even made me my very own gluten free bread roll! You aren't allowed to tip, the food is delicious but considerably cheap and there are four or five wait staff per table. You can also peek in at the classes and the restaurant kitchens (no really, they have glass windows so you can have a good gawk). 

 

I took my full and fat self a little further down the road to the Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site at Val Kill, where I did a guided tour. The tour was great, except I think they expected you to be all down with American history and politics, because there were a lot of jokes and name-dropping that got everyone guffawing but I had no idea what they were talking about. Still, a great tour about a very remarkable woman. I skipped the Franklin D. Roosevelt site and went down to Rhinebeck to have a looksy around some of the Antique stores there for a bit. I'm pretty Antiqued out after the last few days actually. The biggest leg of the drive on the first day was from Rhinebeck to the B&B, where I crawled around winding country roads. Other cars hated me but I was still nervous at this point. Such beautiful scenery but I was concentrating too  much to peel my eyes off the road (probably a good thing?).

I stayed at the lovely Bed by the Stream B&B in Saugerties, which really is right on the stream. There were horses, chickens, crazy peacocks, wild tourkeys, cats and a big happy dog. And a pool. Every morning you get a big breakfast - the bright yellow eggs from the chickens, yum - at the dining room table looking out at the stream. There was an American couple staying there, so we spent about an hour every morning chatting over our enormous breakfast and looking out at that spectacular view. A great start to every day. Breakfast was so big that you just weren't hungry until dinner.

So anyway, the next day I was getting pretty comfortable driving on the right-side of the road and I went across to Hudson (more Antique stores) and then Phoenicia for some TUBING. I picked the day with the thunder storm, good one. I got dropped off with cousins Mike and Mike, who very kindly tubed with me, and we had a good old time floating down the stream. We chatted to fly fisherman on the way, who looked just like fly fisherman should look - knee-deep in the stream in their pocketed-vests and khakis - and the locals sitting on the banks. It's a shame I didn't have a waterproof camera because it really was a gorgeous trip, with the little white pollen-puffs in the air. Tubing was pretty excellent, although I hadn't really brought enough extra clothing with me so I was soaking wet with numb toes for the drive back to the B&B. I went to a really great organic, slow-food restaurant for dinner on the Wednesday night (actually I went there Tuesday as well) just down the road from the B&B called New World Home Cooking. Seriously good food. I basically licked my dinner plate and tapas-dessert plate clean. This place has gluten-free nailed, including their desserts which used mostly rice flours. Yum.

Thursday I went out to Woodstock - the Woodstock - which is a really cool place packed with hippies and artists. Lots of sculptures, little art galleries, beautiful stores with carefully selected jewellery and pieces that were quite unique. I window-shopped every inch of every store, enjoyed a well-made coffee and a home-made ice-cream sundae by a little waterfall, and wandered through a handful of the galleries that were open. I could have stayed for days, but I'd really done it all by lunchtime and had to move on

- Kaaterskill Falls! I really tested my driving getting out there. It was apparently an important site for 19th Century American painters and previously the biggest tourist site in America. You can't tell this is the case, though, by the route to get there. You park just off the highway, and then you literally hug the rocks as you walk back down the road - no path just oncoming traffic - to the beginning of the trail. The GPS also has no idea what you're talking about so you're totally on you're own here. The top f the falls are about a half mile trek up from the road, and you are right on them/in them for the whole thing. The serenity. It is probably not a wise choice to go bush walking on my own, in inappropriate foot wear, without telling anyone, and then to head off the track in search of a private spot. But look, I survived. I even dipped my feet in. 

After about an hour at the Falls, I went down to Saugerties proper where I checked out the Lighthouse, the main streeet (most amazing Chocolate store) and had an early dinner at Miss Lucy's Kitchen, which served mostly local produce and was also gluten free awesome.

Friday, it was back to New York City. I really could not get home fast enough, because we had a new addition joining us whom I was very excited to meet...

East Coast Adventures: Washington D.C. (Part 2)

I'm back in Washington! Actually, right now I am in fact in a D.C. Starbucks writing a blog post. How all-American, yeah? I flew back from Miami on Wednesday morning. I had a lovely flight and made a new friend. We discussed violence against women, which I'm sure people will find surprising, but he was very receptive and interested, I swear. I stayed at a different place in D.C. this time, just to mix it up. International House, in Chinatown, which is a great little place. It's a bit hectic and the house is packed full of junk. But it grows on you and the staff are really friendly and laid back.

I spent Wednesday afternoon walking around the monuments and must-see-in-Washington-DC sights. Reece and I had done all this already, much of it by bike, but at night time. I battled the crowd of students at the White House, and the overly-suspicious guards at Capitol Hill who flipped out when I went to finish my bottle of water before going in "NO LIQUIDS MA'AM!".  It was so hot, insanely hot. I ended up resting on the grass under shady trees, which was actually my favourite part of the afternoon, with all the people jogging, little kids chasing each other with sticks and the steady stream of Marines walking by in uniform. The walk also gave me my bearings. I walked around for about 4 hours, which was impressive.

I headed back to the hostel and to the much-recommended restaurant/performance space/bar Busboys and Poets, which was just around the corner. Amazing gluten free dinner and some wine. I decided that what I really needed to do was have a night out dancing. Sometimes that feeling just comes over you, you know? I went to Eighteenth Street Lounge for reggae night, at the recommendation of my waiter. Let's just say that I did get to do some dancing, had a great time until they closed and made lots of lovely new girl friends. People here, in the US generally but especially in D.C., are so friendly. Out of their way friendly and helpful. But that's another post.

Thursday, then, was a late start. But that's OK, I didn't miss out on anything. I went back to Busboys and Poets for a restorative lunch. The place is just so cool, they cater for gluten-free (and there are vegan, vegetarian, organic, fair-trade, sustainable, bio-dynamic, live performances, free internet etc) and it is right around the corner from the hostel. When you're onto a good thing... They also have a variety of seating styles, and I chose a big lounge chair tucked into a nook, perfect for how I was feeling that morning.

I went to the Sewall-Belmont House & Museum, which was the headquarters for the National Woman's Party (American suffragettes and equal rights campaigners). This was basically my sole reason for coming back to D.C., so I really took my time there and read everything. It is a great museum/house, which has been recently restored, and has a remarkable collection of original items. I even touched the banner poles that were used in the protests! Even if you're not a feminist, it's a very interesting look at American history, particularly their somewhat revolutionary, and now commonplace, lobbying and protest techniques. Also, the patience with which they unwaveringly maintained such a high-level of pressure for so many years. I mean, 1920 for the vote, really!? It is a shame that it is not a bigger tourist attraction, particularly when you consider how most of the attractions are about democracy, freedom and the people (read: men) who fought for it. How is this part of history not of equal importance?

OK, I will take a breather from that now. After I carefully pored over every item and talked at length with the museum assistant, I went across to Georgetown. Here's some examples of people being awesome and nice: the guy at the bus stop that, upon seeing me jump up from the hot seat at the bus shelter, went and got a newspaper and gave it to me to sit on. Just, out of nowhere. Then, in Whole Foods in Georgetown, I couldn't find the amazing yoghurt-covered gluten free pretzels that I was desperately craving - so the guy gave me a free bag of the chocolate ones. Nice, hey?

I actually went to the library in Georgetown, had a read and a sit for a while, and then sat out in the beautiful, and well-named, Book Garden behind the library. I just wanted to soak-up Georgetown, so I wandered around window shopping and generally enjoying the beautiful afternoon. I splurged a little and had a meal at Mie N Yu, which had great reviews by both gluten-free and gluten-full people. It didn't disappoint! The bathrooms there. Wow. Well, let's just say that they are The Best Restaurant Bathroom 2010 in the USA. Seriously, that's an award. I finished up my night down at the cinema in Georgetown where I saw  Bridesmaids, which by the way is hilarious.

Today, I've continued my all-woman-DC tour, starting with breakfast at...you guessed it Busboys and Poets and then on to the National Museum of Women in the Arts. Which I recommend, again even those who do not take such a deliberate interest in women as I do. There's a book in the museum shop about the history of the Museum, which opened in the 80's. I recommend having a flick through that first.

Now, it's back to New York for Memorial Day long weekend. I will hopefully get up to Boston for a couple of days next week, to round off my travels. I only have a month left from today :(

East Coast Adventures: Key West

I only spent 30 hours in Key West, which probably is not enough time anywhere but I did pack a bit in. I pretended I wasn't sick anymore, which is an interesting strategy that I don't recommend, necessarily. Key West is well summed-up by their motto, which is "drunks with fishing problems". Wait, no that's not the official motto, the official motto is "One Human Family". Both are accurate and equally embraced. I also could not get the Beach Boys song, Kokomo, out of my head. You know, "off the Florida Keeeys, there's (actually not) a place called Kokomo, we'll get there fast and then we'll take it slow..." You know the one.

I caught the bus from Miami at the crack of dawn on...Monday? Yeah, I'm pretty sure Monday. The men in Miami get their sleaze on early in the morning, I had some interesting offers as I waited for the bus, to say the least. This time, I actually stayed awake for  most of the bus trip, which was about 4 hours across the overseas highway and through the Keys. Spectacular views and driving, although not the best for photography on a bus. My favourite were the telegraph poles coming out of the ocean. Is that safe?

I got into Key West about midday, and checked in to the gorgeous Caribbean House, run by Marie, the sweetest lady in the world, and a pack of Yorkies that were everywhere with their funny little Yoda ears.

I had about a 10 minute turnaround to get down to the wharf for my snorkeling trip.

Snorkeling at the end of the flu is also not the best. My theory that the ocean fixes everything did not come to be true, and actually it really sent some things into overdrive. Like coughing. And snot. Anyway, the weather was beautifully hot and it was a nice trip out to the reef. It seemed like most people on the trip were on some type of honeymoon or romantic getaway. As in, I was the only person there who was alone. So, what does the only alone person do when the safety system is to 'buddy up'? Buddy up with the handsome captain, of course! Seriously, don't feel sorry for me being alone. Handsome. Captain. We tried to catch lobsters all afternoon. Life could be worse.

Being Key West, the ride back involved free drinks, which was fun. Except, this is disgusting, I sat down-wind from a guy who sneezed. He sneezed in my face. IN MY FACE. He caught me wiping it off my face, and I just, well I think really it was more embarrassing for him. Yeah, I had sneeze on my face, but he was mortified. Four hours in the sun, snorkeling, sneeze-in-my-face and drinking were not good remedies to being sick. I went back to my guest house, and passed out in front of the air-conditioning before forcing myself on a trip to Duval Street through the shops, then down to the southernmost point of America and past Ernest Hemmingway's house.

Every night Key West has a sunset party at Mallory Square. Really, just the most breathtaking sunset I've ever seen, I think.

 
I got my tarot cards read by a guy who looked a lot like the clairvoyant in the Wizard of Oz ("you're running away"), he had lovely eye make-up, and big bright jewellery including a gem-stone fastened turban.  I don't think I like all the news he gave me for the coming twelve months, so I selectively recorded only the good things. There were lots of street acts including a guy eating a sword, another guy juggling fire, a comedian and two musicians with a dog that collected money. The square is packed with tourists and locals and you can buy all sorts of arts and knick-knacks. It was very tastefully done, and it seems like they select very carefully who and what makes up the market/performers. You know sometimes you go to things like that and it's row upon row of the same-old tacky bits and pieces, until it ends up feeling like the showbag pavillion at the Easter Show? This was more like a well curated museum, with just the right amount of tacky so as to render it 'kitsch'.

I stayed there for a couple of hours, there was a guy playing the guitar and singing some excellent classics, so I sat near him and enjoyed the serenity. I could hardly get home fast enough, though, feeling like I really over-did it and that I might faint. I actually fell asleep on top of the bed in my clothes, for a long while.

The next morning I enjoyed a lovely champagne breakfast (Key West = drinking, see?) and a Cuban coffee. Again, the heat was ridiculous. But I love humid heat, the way it slows everyone and everything down and how you're allowed to wear not much and spend as much time in and under water as possible. I had a look through a retired Coast Guard ship, Ingham, pretty cool. Then I took my sweaty self down to the beach at Fort Taylor. Heavenly, despite the trek to get there.

I finished up my Key West trip at a garden bar off Duval street. A clothing optional bar. I seriously didn't know this to begin with. Here's how I found out:
Bar tender: you can't use your phone up here
Me: oh, why not?
Bar tender: because there's no photography allowed. it's a clothing optional bar
Me: really?
Bar tender: *takes off clothes* yeah.

So...that was interesting. I kept my clothes on, had a drink with a few travelers in their 50's (who thankfully did not get naked), and then enjoyed a heated discussion with a man (also, thankfully, not naked) who was trying to tell me that a woman's role/goal in life is to civilize men. HA. Yeah, that was fun. Especially when he lamented that he couldn't find a partner. The bar tender (now clothed) and I were just so surprised at this!

All in all, a pretty good 30 hours. I'm sure I could spend a lot more time there doing not a lot. The food was great, the people all colourful characters and the vibe welcoming and relaxed. Next time, a few more days and no being sick would be the best.

East Coast Adventures: Hipstamatics

Philadelphia

 

Washington D.C.

 

Miami Beach