what on earth is this? like a big, hairless rat-pig cross. apparently, is a dog.
Lunar aaaw.
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Sunday, April 3, 2011
being a proper tourist
I did proper Peru-touristy things today. Inca ruins. Llamas. Ceviche. Beaches. Sweeten condensed milk. Dolphins!
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Mercados y Parques
Today is markets day. In the morning, I wandered up to the Inca Markets in central Miraflores, to buy useless souvenirs. Happy bargaining days. The parks in Miraflores are also beautiful - really clean and well-kept - so I took my time zig-zagging through them on the way.
Next was a failed attempt at paragliding. Trust, I've had two clear and beautiful days in Miraflores, but as soon as I want to go jump off a cliff the coast is covered in thick fog. That's OK, though, I came back and went to the Organic market down the road from the house. Amazing. I love organic hippies the world over. Everywhere, those two sweet words "sin gluten". I sat in another of the gorgeous parks, behind the organic markets, and enjoyed the most scrumptious vegan paparellena followed by a sweet strawberry and ginger tart.
Next was a failed attempt at paragliding. Trust, I've had two clear and beautiful days in Miraflores, but as soon as I want to go jump off a cliff the coast is covered in thick fog. That's OK, though, I came back and went to the Organic market down the road from the house. Amazing. I love organic hippies the world over. Everywhere, those two sweet words "sin gluten". I sat in another of the gorgeous parks, behind the organic markets, and enjoyed the most scrumptious vegan paparellena followed by a sweet strawberry and ginger tart.
2 minutes later
Followed by the juiciest, sweetest mango back at the house and a big mug of Peruvian jungle coffee with cocoa. Yum?
Yesterday was the day that I was beaten by sweeten condensed milk. I picked up a suspiro (sigh of a Lima woman) during my dusk wanderings, and I just couldn't win. Suspiro is basically half a can of sweeten condensed milk, topped with gooey meringue and cinnamon. I mean, what more can you want in life? Except a big glass of water and maybe a half-time nap.
You can't see, but there were bubbles. BUBBLES
This afternoon, it is back to the coast for a tour of pisco (though I can probably only do 2) and more food.
Sigh. Happy, full face.
Friday, April 1, 2011
Intiwawa, a day in the life...
Here's the Arequipa mash-up. The days were full and I never got to writing full posts! Always a good sign. Here tis a little overview of my two and a bit weeks in Arequipa, the White City...
Every week day I had 2 hours of Spanish lessons with Keyla, the most patient Spanish teacher in all the world. It worked out at about $4 an hour for a one-on-one lesson. Incredible. Most of the voluntarios took Spanish lessons with Keyla, in the kitchen, and really we wanted her to move in. Stay Keyla! So lovely, always made you feel like you were really clever even if you got all the homework wrong. Oh yes, and homework. That took some time, but I always counted the sub-titled double episodes of Friends each week night as study. I was reading the sub-titles, obviously.
Depending on the schedule of the day, it is off to jardin, kinder class, in San Isidro for the morning. San Isidro is about an hour out of Arequipa on the bus, and is a little town built around brick-making. The place is dry and dusty and there are a lot of families struggling out there. Kinder was a bright blue little beacon of colour up the dusty hill, and Norma the kinder teacher was the sweetest. The kinder kids are wild, absolutely, but Norma had this calm serenity and you don't even realise that she is herding the kids through the day. The kinder class-room was bright and clean, with lots of toys (although many creatively made from bits and pieces around the house), puzzles and books. Norma is a fantastic teacher, and my Spanish being the level it is, I'd find myself enthralled in her reading of Little Red Riding Hood and excitedly pointing out items that were rojo (red) with the kids. Fun for all ages. Kinder was from 8:30-1, then you'd get the bus back, make some lunch, maybe even squeeze in a shower every other day, cram my Spanish homework and have my two hour lesson. Followed by exhausted collapse in front of double Friends episodes.
If it wasn't Kinder, it was Tareas (homework) also in San Isidro, in the afternoon. Then the day would be in reverse, but would also end in exhausted collapse in front of Friends.
Now, the bus ride was something. One day, we had five people (FIVE) not actually in the bus but we were on the first step into the bus. Hanging on for dear life to anything you could. An hour of this is a nightmare, though mostly you can snag a seat. One trip I couldn't actually hold onto anything, and ended up being in a three-way-spoon with Manu, me and then the bag of food for tareas.
Intiwawa was like a share house more than a hostel, and there were 6 of us staying there, though always a host of extras at the weekends or nights from the Intiwawa family. There was always talk of Pisco Sour Hour, but Shannon and I tended to be too tired to go to the store and organise this. It was good in theory, though, and one time we managed to get red wine. Otherwise, weekends were for going out, or showering and doing laundry...
The big Plaza Vea supermarket is about a 10 minute walk from the house, and with so many people sharing one fridge it was best to buy in small bits. Also, the occasional electricity outages had an influence.
So, that's the mash-up. The day in the life. I loved Arequipa and Intiwawa, but I am just ready for the next thing and also to eat. I could have stayed there for a year just doing Spanish lessons and hanging out in Arequipa, but I think this is not a productive use of my time.
xx
Every week day I had 2 hours of Spanish lessons with Keyla, the most patient Spanish teacher in all the world. It worked out at about $4 an hour for a one-on-one lesson. Incredible. Most of the voluntarios took Spanish lessons with Keyla, in the kitchen, and really we wanted her to move in. Stay Keyla! So lovely, always made you feel like you were really clever even if you got all the homework wrong. Oh yes, and homework. That took some time, but I always counted the sub-titled double episodes of Friends each week night as study. I was reading the sub-titles, obviously.
Depending on the schedule of the day, it is off to jardin, kinder class, in San Isidro for the morning. San Isidro is about an hour out of Arequipa on the bus, and is a little town built around brick-making. The place is dry and dusty and there are a lot of families struggling out there. Kinder was a bright blue little beacon of colour up the dusty hill, and Norma the kinder teacher was the sweetest. The kinder kids are wild, absolutely, but Norma had this calm serenity and you don't even realise that she is herding the kids through the day. The kinder class-room was bright and clean, with lots of toys (although many creatively made from bits and pieces around the house), puzzles and books. Norma is a fantastic teacher, and my Spanish being the level it is, I'd find myself enthralled in her reading of Little Red Riding Hood and excitedly pointing out items that were rojo (red) with the kids. Fun for all ages. Kinder was from 8:30-1, then you'd get the bus back, make some lunch, maybe even squeeze in a shower every other day, cram my Spanish homework and have my two hour lesson. Followed by exhausted collapse in front of double Friends episodes.
If it wasn't Kinder, it was Tareas (homework) also in San Isidro, in the afternoon. Then the day would be in reverse, but would also end in exhausted collapse in front of Friends.
Now, the bus ride was something. One day, we had five people (FIVE) not actually in the bus but we were on the first step into the bus. Hanging on for dear life to anything you could. An hour of this is a nightmare, though mostly you can snag a seat. One trip I couldn't actually hold onto anything, and ended up being in a three-way-spoon with Manu, me and then the bag of food for tareas.
Intiwawa was like a share house more than a hostel, and there were 6 of us staying there, though always a host of extras at the weekends or nights from the Intiwawa family. There was always talk of Pisco Sour Hour, but Shannon and I tended to be too tired to go to the store and organise this. It was good in theory, though, and one time we managed to get red wine. Otherwise, weekends were for going out, or showering and doing laundry...
The big Plaza Vea supermarket is about a 10 minute walk from the house, and with so many people sharing one fridge it was best to buy in small bits. Also, the occasional electricity outages had an influence.
So, that's the mash-up. The day in the life. I loved Arequipa and Intiwawa, but I am just ready for the next thing and also to eat. I could have stayed there for a year just doing Spanish lessons and hanging out in Arequipa, but I think this is not a productive use of my time.
xx
24 Hours of Glutenless Gluttony in Lima
I'm in food nirvana. A permanent state of full and satisfaction. I didn't pay close attention at the time, but I booked a cheap little B&B in Miraflores, Lima, owned by the second best chef in Peru (so I am told) and his brother. They do gastronomic tours as part of the business. I repeat, food nirvana.
As part of staying here, I have been driven around by Carlos to see Lima at night and day. And to eat. Eat, eat, eat. Honestly, it feels like I've just dropped in on someone's home (actually, it did use to be their family home), complete with Luna the dog, rather than staying at a hostel.
Today, we went for a walk around the area, including a stop at the little Peruvian tapas bar down the road, then off for a drive along the coast and of course to pick up Carlos' friend from the bus station, meet his friend's mum and family. You know, as you do. An amazing lunch, and there was meant to be a trip to the market so we could cook something tonight, but I desperately needed a siesta after the feast. Maybe later. Last night, dinner at Mangos on the cliffs in Miraflores. Maybe too many passion fruit piscos (honestly, just three and then I needed a whole bottle of water, they pack a punch). Tomorrow, food markets and flea markets and Sunday to the beach. With some lessons in Peruvian cooking along the way. The lounge room is packed with cooking books and Carlos is full of knowledge about Peruvian food. Sin trigo.
Did I mention the food?
Anyway, here is the last 24 hours in pictures.
xxx
As part of staying here, I have been driven around by Carlos to see Lima at night and day. And to eat. Eat, eat, eat. Honestly, it feels like I've just dropped in on someone's home (actually, it did use to be their family home), complete with Luna the dog, rather than staying at a hostel.
Today, we went for a walk around the area, including a stop at the little Peruvian tapas bar down the road, then off for a drive along the coast and of course to pick up Carlos' friend from the bus station, meet his friend's mum and family. You know, as you do. An amazing lunch, and there was meant to be a trip to the market so we could cook something tonight, but I desperately needed a siesta after the feast. Maybe later. Last night, dinner at Mangos on the cliffs in Miraflores. Maybe too many passion fruit piscos (honestly, just three and then I needed a whole bottle of water, they pack a punch). Tomorrow, food markets and flea markets and Sunday to the beach. With some lessons in Peruvian cooking along the way. The lounge room is packed with cooking books and Carlos is full of knowledge about Peruvian food. Sin trigo.
Did I mention the food?
Anyway, here is the last 24 hours in pictures.
xxx
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