Despite wheat being a relatively new flour in Peru, and despite the abundance of alternative grains and flours (maize, polenta, quinoa), everything here is covered in trigo (wheat flour). Eating out is a real challenge, and I had to persuade one restaurant to do an omelet without it. Who makes omelets with flour?
Breakfast is, as usual, the most difficult meal. I have found a gluten free product range, but they only sell in and around Lima. Their website has a helpful directory of outlets. I wish I'd looked into this earlier, because the nearest outlet is a 16 hour bus ride away, and had I known I would have bought a truckload of cereal when I was in Lima. Oh well.
It is also really difficult to find snacks and treats that are gluten-free, not least because of inconsistent labeling. Whereas in Australia I know which brands or products to look out for - and where to find them - it is a lot more difficult here and most vendors of chocolates, chips and other treats only sell gluten-filled products. Irritating. As for snacks? Forget it. Non existent. I am yet to find crackers or other biscuits that are gluten free, or snack bars.
I am getting a care-package of lollies and snack bars sent down, but the post is a tad slow so who knows when it will arrive.
My recommendations, if I was to do it again:
* Bring as many snack bars and gf treats as possible with you, but be sure to check customs regulations first
* Research where you can find gf product ranges (such as Shaer) in Peru/your destination, and incorporate stops there into your trip. Stock up when you have the chance.
* If you're like me and not doing a 'guided tour', and are backpacking or going solo in whatever capacity, the common advice to contact the tour company prior to departure is really irrelevant. Instead, stay at places where there are kitchen facilities, and find the biggest supermarket near by to buy your staples (hello rice and eggs)
* I'd also recommend coming prepared with a range of recipes that don't rely on specialist gf products. I didn't realise quite how much I relied on gf sauces, stocks, mixes etc at home. Gluten free soy sauce? Ha. Gluten free stock? HA HA. Get back to basics and work on imaginative egg or rice recipes. It is an effort.
* When eating out, come prepared with Spanish-language coeliac cards. I have one iPhone app from Celiac Travel, and I also printed out a number of Spanish coeliac cards from the Coeliac Society Australia.
*Learn how to explain your condition before even learning how to say hello in Spanish. Learn the words to look out for on packaging
* And finally, eat like you're going into hibernation. When there is gf food available, fill-up because you may have to survive for some time after without food. This is where the snack bars come in handy
It's been difficult and it feels like when I first stopped eating gluten, when I was permanently hungry and confused. It's more difficult, because you're always recommended against eating salads (because of dirty water) and sometimes meat when you travel. And it is in a new language. Did I mention it is difficult?
But, it is not impossible. I have eaten 3 meals on most days, and am probably far healthier for the lack of snacks and treats. I may turn into a hot chip, but hey at least they are generally hand-cut and safe here.
Happy gluten free traveling.
xx
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Monday, March 21, 2011
Lago Titikaka
Finally returned from our weekend to Lake Titicaca. And I´m clean! First (cold) shower in four days.
Lake Titicaca was beautiful. The trip was...many things. Daniela, Shannon and I, having just met each other, embarked on our trip at 11pm on Friday on an overnight bus. I sat next to a Peruvian woman, about my age, on the bus. I fell asleep before we even left the bus station, and woke up as we were pulling out and she was putting one of her blankets over me. I think maybe this is the nicest thing anyone has ever done. And lucky too, because the buses are freezing.
Arriving at the bus station in Puno at about 5am, all we wanted was a coffee. Coffee in Peru is, well, put it this way - Starbucks is the best coffee in Peru. But it warmed me up. They left me alone for 2 minutes and I disappeared into one of the little shops in the bus station, emerging with the most amazing mittens and a beanie. So I was warm and ready to go.
We were on a rickety boat with maybe 20 other people, and our first stop were the floating islands. Everything on the floating islands is made from totora reeds. The islands themselves, the houses, the boats. They even eat it. It was pretty amazing, although very commercial.
We had a look at two of the floating islands, and then had a three hour boat to a real island (as in, not made of reeds and not floating) Isla Amantani. I slept for Australia during that bit, with altitude sickness taking me over. Actually, I have slept solidly for Australia since I left. We´ve decided this is a particular skill that I have.
Anyway, we got off at Amantani and were billeted off with a family, the three of us stayed with one family. We think our guide from the family didn´t like us, which maybe she was just sick of having to take gringos everywhere. Fair enough. She basically sprinted up the hill and from this point I was completely overcome with altitude sickness. The family were really lovely, they speak quechela on the islands, but also know Spanish, so we could communicate (OK, Daniela and Shannon could communicate). They cooked us the most delicious lunch, vegetable soup, corn, haloumi and potatoes in their skins that sparked a ¨I can´t believe it´s not butter¨ moment for me. We had more coca tea, which they promote for all ailments. And then I went up to our room, which was really nice and decorated with crepe paper like we used to do in primary school, and I continued to sleep for Australia. I got really sick, and couldn´t get down for dinner so the girls brought up some coca tea and soup for me. It felt like my brains were trying to escape through my eye balls, and when that didn´t work it was a double attack as my body threw a tantrum in my stomach. I was convinced I was going to die (I´m prone to hyperbole), but it started to rain and hail so there was no leaving.
Then the sun came up (I´m skipping over the bit where the girls had fun without me all dressed up at the fiesta) and I felt amazing again. Yay! We had breakfast with the family (variations on flour and water, so I had a muesli bar and some mint tea), and went back down to the boat. By this stage we were all slowly starting to get friendly on the boat, with all the other travellers, some from Peru and most from all the main backpacker places - Canada, America, England and I represented for Australia. We even had a couple in their sixties with us, which I thought was pretty awesome and I hope I´m still backpacking at their age. Anyway, so I didn´t sleep this time! I was doing a celebratory jig for not having altitude sickness anymore and was all touristy and taking photos of everything. You can really tell how high up you are, because the clouds are just hovering over the water so close.
We went to another island, and I can´t for the life of me remember the name of it. We had to walk up, which I was nervous about but our guide gave me some of the mint to sniff which really works. I got really snap-happy taking photos of the slopping hill with all the livestock and little houses. It reminded me of the English countryside kind of. Shannon took it slow with me, stopping every few metres so I could catch my breath.
Eventually we got to the town square and I bought some postcards for my grandmothers and took another hundred photos of the breathtaking view. After some time there, we headed over to a house on the other side of the hill, where we sat at this long outdoor table overlooking the lake and our guide explained to us more about this island and their traditions. And then, we had the most amazing trout for lunch. By this stage I was ravenous having not eaten for so long, and fish, rice and chips was exactly what I needed. Amazing.
After lunch, we wandered back down (540 steps, lucky it was downhill), where our boat met us and we jetted back off. I managed to stay awake again and got chatting with others in our group, who were all doing various amazing volunteering things in Peru.
By the time we got to the bus station, things had become a little tense though. All three of us had suffered various illnesses over the weekend. We were tired, hadn´t showered and toilet stops were really hit and miss. We´d just met and had spent three days on top of one another. So we had a little fight. Actually, it wasn´t too serious and now we are laughing about it. We hugged it out, got on an earlier bus and I slept for Australia again. We didn´t get in until midnight, and now it appears I´ve lost my bank card. I don´t know when I became the most useless person in the world, but I have.
I taught the girls a thing or two about sleeping
We were on a rickety boat with maybe 20 other people, and our first stop were the floating islands. Everything on the floating islands is made from totora reeds. The islands themselves, the houses, the boats. They even eat it. It was pretty amazing, although very commercial.
We were invited into their houses, which I find a bit uncomfortable and I really hope they get paid for it. I tried on the skirts and hats, a very becoming sight.
Anyway, we got off at Amantani and were billeted off with a family, the three of us stayed with one family. We think our guide from the family didn´t like us, which maybe she was just sick of having to take gringos everywhere. Fair enough. She basically sprinted up the hill and from this point I was completely overcome with altitude sickness. The family were really lovely, they speak quechela on the islands, but also know Spanish, so we could communicate (OK, Daniela and Shannon could communicate). They cooked us the most delicious lunch, vegetable soup, corn, haloumi and potatoes in their skins that sparked a ¨I can´t believe it´s not butter¨ moment for me. We had more coca tea, which they promote for all ailments. And then I went up to our room, which was really nice and decorated with crepe paper like we used to do in primary school, and I continued to sleep for Australia. I got really sick, and couldn´t get down for dinner so the girls brought up some coca tea and soup for me. It felt like my brains were trying to escape through my eye balls, and when that didn´t work it was a double attack as my body threw a tantrum in my stomach. I was convinced I was going to die (I´m prone to hyperbole), but it started to rain and hail so there was no leaving.
We went to another island, and I can´t for the life of me remember the name of it. We had to walk up, which I was nervous about but our guide gave me some of the mint to sniff which really works. I got really snap-happy taking photos of the slopping hill with all the livestock and little houses. It reminded me of the English countryside kind of. Shannon took it slow with me, stopping every few metres so I could catch my breath.
We even stopped and bought BFF bracelets for the three of us. Aw.
By the time we got to the bus station, things had become a little tense though. All three of us had suffered various illnesses over the weekend. We were tired, hadn´t showered and toilet stops were really hit and miss. We´d just met and had spent three days on top of one another. So we had a little fight. Actually, it wasn´t too serious and now we are laughing about it. We hugged it out, got on an earlier bus and I slept for Australia again. We didn´t get in until midnight, and now it appears I´ve lost my bank card. I don´t know when I became the most useless person in the world, but I have.
las amigas
Friday, March 18, 2011
Successful trip to the city
Shannon and I successfully made it into the city on the bus! We decided I probably need one of those kiddie leashes, fortunately my jumper has a hood so she was able to save me from getting run over/going the wrong way. It's ok, I managed on my own for an hour and even got home :)
We also visited starbucks - which seem to be exactly the same wherever you go...
Managed to make a starbucks visit a little more Peruvian.
The bus!
Just waiting for my spanish lesson with Keyla, my first Peruvian friend.
Xx
We also visited starbucks - which seem to be exactly the same wherever you go...
Managed to make a starbucks visit a little more Peruvian.
The bus!
Just waiting for my spanish lesson with Keyla, my first Peruvian friend.
Xx
Apparently I´m NOT the world´s greatest packer
It turns out I forgot to pack a few crucial things...
* My camera battery (woops!)
* Adequate socks
* The correct adapter
* A torch
This is quite an achievement yes?
I've just slept for 13 hours, and feel amazing. I met another of the volunteers this morning, who is also coming to Lake Titicaca for the weekend. Yay! Don't expect photos. Lucky for my iPhone at least!
May venture into the city, to suss out the electronics shops. There is hope still.
Oh, and here is my view from the rooftop. The roosters and the dogs are having a chat across the city.
¡buenos días amigos!
XXX
x♀
* My camera battery (woops!)
* Adequate socks
* The correct adapter
* A torch
This is quite an achievement yes?
I've just slept for 13 hours, and feel amazing. I met another of the volunteers this morning, who is also coming to Lake Titicaca for the weekend. Yay! Don't expect photos. Lucky for my iPhone at least!
May venture into the city, to suss out the electronics shops. There is hope still.
Oh, and here is my view from the rooftop. The roosters and the dogs are having a chat across the city.
¡buenos días amigos!
XXX
x♀
Location:Lima,Arequipa,Peru
Landed in Arequipa
After an intense four (five?) days of transit, I´ve finally arrived at Casa Intiwawa in Arequipa, Peru. Six cities, four planes, four time zones and one overnight bus. A small bout of altitude sickness, an epilipetic fit (not me, the girl next to me on my flight from Mexico to Lima, she ended up being fine), a lost phone (we´ve been reunited) and for some reason an uncontrollable impulse to respond in French every time I´m spoken to in Spanish. I´ve also survived two 24 hour periods of no meals, as I struggle through explaining gluten-free in Spanish and discover why some airlines are so cheap.
Day one at Intiwawa has been very relaxed, meeting the other volunteers, the landlords and having a delicious lunch and a little look around the city. I´m pretty sure I know how to get the bus into town now. I´ll start Spanish lessons tomorrow, and some of the projects next week. School was meant to start a couple of weeks ago, we help with English and Computer classes at some of the schools around Arequipa, but the kids have been slow to arrive. Different pace here. When they get into the swing of things, we´ll also start the after school projects.
I´m heading off to Lake Titicaca tomorrow night for the weekend with some other volunteers. In my jet-lagged/altitude weary state, I do vaguely remember handing over money and my passport to someone for a bus, but I was asleep. Now I´m awake and more coherent, it turns out we are booked on an overnight bus at 11pm tomorrow, and then spending one night at Lake Titicaca. Actually, that is about all I´ve figured out at this point, but I´ve been assured they´ll look after me while I continue to struggle through this fog. We´ve also planned a trip to the beach for the following weekend. I´ve put the word out for some cooking classes - I think this will be the easiest way to find out what Peruvian foods are gluten-free. I´ve also been recommended to take Salsa classes. Why not?
Oh, and Peru is beautiful. I haven´t taken photos yet, I´ve been a bit awe-struck. On the bus down from Lima I woke to a bright orange sunrise over the west-coast. Think I left nose-smudges on the glass. The main square in Arequipa, Plaza de Armas, is all white stone (The White City) with the Catedral on one side (my landmark for getting the bus!), and the monastry behind. The Plaza itself is actually quite peaceful, although very busy, and is all green public space in the middle, surrounded by the chaotic Peruvian roads. The only road rule seems to be that there are no rules, and I´ve nearly been run-over many times already. There´s two snow-capped mountains behind us, which at first I thought were just part of the clouds, but the sky is clear. With no high-rises, the city is lit with hundreds of orange street lights at night - and from the rooftop of Casa Intiwawa this is quite the view. Tonight, it is very quiet. Although, when some sirens took up earlier, all of the dogs in Arequipa joined in harmony.
Tomorrow, my first Spanish class, grocery shopping and then Lake Titicaca.
Buenos noches xxx
Day one at Intiwawa has been very relaxed, meeting the other volunteers, the landlords and having a delicious lunch and a little look around the city. I´m pretty sure I know how to get the bus into town now. I´ll start Spanish lessons tomorrow, and some of the projects next week. School was meant to start a couple of weeks ago, we help with English and Computer classes at some of the schools around Arequipa, but the kids have been slow to arrive. Different pace here. When they get into the swing of things, we´ll also start the after school projects.
I´m heading off to Lake Titicaca tomorrow night for the weekend with some other volunteers. In my jet-lagged/altitude weary state, I do vaguely remember handing over money and my passport to someone for a bus, but I was asleep. Now I´m awake and more coherent, it turns out we are booked on an overnight bus at 11pm tomorrow, and then spending one night at Lake Titicaca. Actually, that is about all I´ve figured out at this point, but I´ve been assured they´ll look after me while I continue to struggle through this fog. We´ve also planned a trip to the beach for the following weekend. I´ve put the word out for some cooking classes - I think this will be the easiest way to find out what Peruvian foods are gluten-free. I´ve also been recommended to take Salsa classes. Why not?
Oh, and Peru is beautiful. I haven´t taken photos yet, I´ve been a bit awe-struck. On the bus down from Lima I woke to a bright orange sunrise over the west-coast. Think I left nose-smudges on the glass. The main square in Arequipa, Plaza de Armas, is all white stone (The White City) with the Catedral on one side (my landmark for getting the bus!), and the monastry behind. The Plaza itself is actually quite peaceful, although very busy, and is all green public space in the middle, surrounded by the chaotic Peruvian roads. The only road rule seems to be that there are no rules, and I´ve nearly been run-over many times already. There´s two snow-capped mountains behind us, which at first I thought were just part of the clouds, but the sky is clear. With no high-rises, the city is lit with hundreds of orange street lights at night - and from the rooftop of Casa Intiwawa this is quite the view. Tonight, it is very quiet. Although, when some sirens took up earlier, all of the dogs in Arequipa joined in harmony.
Tomorrow, my first Spanish class, grocery shopping and then Lake Titicaca.
Buenos noches xxx
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)