East Coast Adventures: Washington D.C. (Part 2)

I'm back in Washington! Actually, right now I am in fact in a D.C. Starbucks writing a blog post. How all-American, yeah? I flew back from Miami on Wednesday morning. I had a lovely flight and made a new friend. We discussed violence against women, which I'm sure people will find surprising, but he was very receptive and interested, I swear. I stayed at a different place in D.C. this time, just to mix it up. International House, in Chinatown, which is a great little place. It's a bit hectic and the house is packed full of junk. But it grows on you and the staff are really friendly and laid back.

I spent Wednesday afternoon walking around the monuments and must-see-in-Washington-DC sights. Reece and I had done all this already, much of it by bike, but at night time. I battled the crowd of students at the White House, and the overly-suspicious guards at Capitol Hill who flipped out when I went to finish my bottle of water before going in "NO LIQUIDS MA'AM!".  It was so hot, insanely hot. I ended up resting on the grass under shady trees, which was actually my favourite part of the afternoon, with all the people jogging, little kids chasing each other with sticks and the steady stream of Marines walking by in uniform. The walk also gave me my bearings. I walked around for about 4 hours, which was impressive.

I headed back to the hostel and to the much-recommended restaurant/performance space/bar Busboys and Poets, which was just around the corner. Amazing gluten free dinner and some wine. I decided that what I really needed to do was have a night out dancing. Sometimes that feeling just comes over you, you know? I went to Eighteenth Street Lounge for reggae night, at the recommendation of my waiter. Let's just say that I did get to do some dancing, had a great time until they closed and made lots of lovely new girl friends. People here, in the US generally but especially in D.C., are so friendly. Out of their way friendly and helpful. But that's another post.

Thursday, then, was a late start. But that's OK, I didn't miss out on anything. I went back to Busboys and Poets for a restorative lunch. The place is just so cool, they cater for gluten-free (and there are vegan, vegetarian, organic, fair-trade, sustainable, bio-dynamic, live performances, free internet etc) and it is right around the corner from the hostel. When you're onto a good thing... They also have a variety of seating styles, and I chose a big lounge chair tucked into a nook, perfect for how I was feeling that morning.

I went to the Sewall-Belmont House & Museum, which was the headquarters for the National Woman's Party (American suffragettes and equal rights campaigners). This was basically my sole reason for coming back to D.C., so I really took my time there and read everything. It is a great museum/house, which has been recently restored, and has a remarkable collection of original items. I even touched the banner poles that were used in the protests! Even if you're not a feminist, it's a very interesting look at American history, particularly their somewhat revolutionary, and now commonplace, lobbying and protest techniques. Also, the patience with which they unwaveringly maintained such a high-level of pressure for so many years. I mean, 1920 for the vote, really!? It is a shame that it is not a bigger tourist attraction, particularly when you consider how most of the attractions are about democracy, freedom and the people (read: men) who fought for it. How is this part of history not of equal importance?

OK, I will take a breather from that now. After I carefully pored over every item and talked at length with the museum assistant, I went across to Georgetown. Here's some examples of people being awesome and nice: the guy at the bus stop that, upon seeing me jump up from the hot seat at the bus shelter, went and got a newspaper and gave it to me to sit on. Just, out of nowhere. Then, in Whole Foods in Georgetown, I couldn't find the amazing yoghurt-covered gluten free pretzels that I was desperately craving - so the guy gave me a free bag of the chocolate ones. Nice, hey?

I actually went to the library in Georgetown, had a read and a sit for a while, and then sat out in the beautiful, and well-named, Book Garden behind the library. I just wanted to soak-up Georgetown, so I wandered around window shopping and generally enjoying the beautiful afternoon. I splurged a little and had a meal at Mie N Yu, which had great reviews by both gluten-free and gluten-full people. It didn't disappoint! The bathrooms there. Wow. Well, let's just say that they are The Best Restaurant Bathroom 2010 in the USA. Seriously, that's an award. I finished up my night down at the cinema in Georgetown where I saw  Bridesmaids, which by the way is hilarious.

Today, I've continued my all-woman-DC tour, starting with breakfast at...you guessed it Busboys and Poets and then on to the National Museum of Women in the Arts. Which I recommend, again even those who do not take such a deliberate interest in women as I do. There's a book in the museum shop about the history of the Museum, which opened in the 80's. I recommend having a flick through that first.

Now, it's back to New York for Memorial Day long weekend. I will hopefully get up to Boston for a couple of days next week, to round off my travels. I only have a month left from today :(

East Coast Adventures: Key West

I only spent 30 hours in Key West, which probably is not enough time anywhere but I did pack a bit in. I pretended I wasn't sick anymore, which is an interesting strategy that I don't recommend, necessarily. Key West is well summed-up by their motto, which is "drunks with fishing problems". Wait, no that's not the official motto, the official motto is "One Human Family". Both are accurate and equally embraced. I also could not get the Beach Boys song, Kokomo, out of my head. You know, "off the Florida Keeeys, there's (actually not) a place called Kokomo, we'll get there fast and then we'll take it slow..." You know the one.

I caught the bus from Miami at the crack of dawn on...Monday? Yeah, I'm pretty sure Monday. The men in Miami get their sleaze on early in the morning, I had some interesting offers as I waited for the bus, to say the least. This time, I actually stayed awake for  most of the bus trip, which was about 4 hours across the overseas highway and through the Keys. Spectacular views and driving, although not the best for photography on a bus. My favourite were the telegraph poles coming out of the ocean. Is that safe?

I got into Key West about midday, and checked in to the gorgeous Caribbean House, run by Marie, the sweetest lady in the world, and a pack of Yorkies that were everywhere with their funny little Yoda ears.

I had about a 10 minute turnaround to get down to the wharf for my snorkeling trip.

Snorkeling at the end of the flu is also not the best. My theory that the ocean fixes everything did not come to be true, and actually it really sent some things into overdrive. Like coughing. And snot. Anyway, the weather was beautifully hot and it was a nice trip out to the reef. It seemed like most people on the trip were on some type of honeymoon or romantic getaway. As in, I was the only person there who was alone. So, what does the only alone person do when the safety system is to 'buddy up'? Buddy up with the handsome captain, of course! Seriously, don't feel sorry for me being alone. Handsome. Captain. We tried to catch lobsters all afternoon. Life could be worse.

Being Key West, the ride back involved free drinks, which was fun. Except, this is disgusting, I sat down-wind from a guy who sneezed. He sneezed in my face. IN MY FACE. He caught me wiping it off my face, and I just, well I think really it was more embarrassing for him. Yeah, I had sneeze on my face, but he was mortified. Four hours in the sun, snorkeling, sneeze-in-my-face and drinking were not good remedies to being sick. I went back to my guest house, and passed out in front of the air-conditioning before forcing myself on a trip to Duval Street through the shops, then down to the southernmost point of America and past Ernest Hemmingway's house.

Every night Key West has a sunset party at Mallory Square. Really, just the most breathtaking sunset I've ever seen, I think.

 
I got my tarot cards read by a guy who looked a lot like the clairvoyant in the Wizard of Oz ("you're running away"), he had lovely eye make-up, and big bright jewellery including a gem-stone fastened turban.  I don't think I like all the news he gave me for the coming twelve months, so I selectively recorded only the good things. There were lots of street acts including a guy eating a sword, another guy juggling fire, a comedian and two musicians with a dog that collected money. The square is packed with tourists and locals and you can buy all sorts of arts and knick-knacks. It was very tastefully done, and it seems like they select very carefully who and what makes up the market/performers. You know sometimes you go to things like that and it's row upon row of the same-old tacky bits and pieces, until it ends up feeling like the showbag pavillion at the Easter Show? This was more like a well curated museum, with just the right amount of tacky so as to render it 'kitsch'.

I stayed there for a couple of hours, there was a guy playing the guitar and singing some excellent classics, so I sat near him and enjoyed the serenity. I could hardly get home fast enough, though, feeling like I really over-did it and that I might faint. I actually fell asleep on top of the bed in my clothes, for a long while.

The next morning I enjoyed a lovely champagne breakfast (Key West = drinking, see?) and a Cuban coffee. Again, the heat was ridiculous. But I love humid heat, the way it slows everyone and everything down and how you're allowed to wear not much and spend as much time in and under water as possible. I had a look through a retired Coast Guard ship, Ingham, pretty cool. Then I took my sweaty self down to the beach at Fort Taylor. Heavenly, despite the trek to get there.

I finished up my Key West trip at a garden bar off Duval street. A clothing optional bar. I seriously didn't know this to begin with. Here's how I found out:
Bar tender: you can't use your phone up here
Me: oh, why not?
Bar tender: because there's no photography allowed. it's a clothing optional bar
Me: really?
Bar tender: *takes off clothes* yeah.

So...that was interesting. I kept my clothes on, had a drink with a few travelers in their 50's (who thankfully did not get naked), and then enjoyed a heated discussion with a man (also, thankfully, not naked) who was trying to tell me that a woman's role/goal in life is to civilize men. HA. Yeah, that was fun. Especially when he lamented that he couldn't find a partner. The bar tender (now clothed) and I were just so surprised at this!

All in all, a pretty good 30 hours. I'm sure I could spend a lot more time there doing not a lot. The food was great, the people all colourful characters and the vibe welcoming and relaxed. Next time, a few more days and no being sick would be the best.

East Coast Adventures: Hipstamatics

Philadelphia

 

Washington D.C.

 

Miami Beach

East Coast Adventures: Miami Beach

I am in Miami! I flew here from Washington D.C. I needed some Rachel time, some sun and my own room. Success all-round. Except I have the flu and have spent much of the weekend in bed in a cold-and-flu-tablet haze. A trip to the pool today (all of 10 meters away) for an hour has sent me straight back to bed for a nap.

Before the flu-cloud took over, I was having a glorious week. Miami is a strange place, and I quite like it. It doesn't feel like part of the U.S. I love the art-deco buildings, and the feeling that the place hasn't had a fresh coat of paint since the 70's, the garish neon lights, tacky souvenir stores and the restaurants from every country lining the streets, which all serve cocktails in buckets the size of my head. Everyone is half naked and on-show, on wheels of some kind and speaking any language other than English. To keep up with the crowd, I've been bike-riding around and wearing short-shorts. I notice the difference of being in a place where the ozone layer is intact. Despite my lack of sun-care in 34* days, I am not getting burnt. It's marvelous. The beach is ridiculous, like picture-perfect too-good-to-be-true. The water is warm and clear, and has been flat and calm just like I like it. All-in-all it has been heavenly. Except for the flu.

Luckily, I booked a beautiful studio apartment for the week, so I've been happily snuggled into my queen-size bed with mountains of pillows, the air-conditioning cranked up and a Glee marathon on my plasma TV. Unfortunately, the plug in my bath doesn't work. I've been at the front desk for three days asking for a plug. I'm sick and I want a bath with the fancy organic bath gel, is that too much to ask for? The house keeper keeps giving me more towels every day, but it seems like she hasn't taken any of them away, as I now have seven of them. Of all places, probably the perfect time to be sick.

Tomorrow, though, I have to suck it up for my 6:30am departure on the bus down to Key West. I'm really excited about seeing the overseas highway and spending the night in Key West, so I have to get better.

 

Traveling alone = no option but to take selfies

 

It looks like this has been edited to enhance the colour, right? But it hasn't! This is just what it looks like. Amazing.

 

The 'small' size. I couldn't even finish it

East Coast Adventures: Washington D.C. (Part 1)

From Philadelphia, I said goodbye to Liz and Charlie (I'm sure they are missing me) and caught a bus to Washington D.C. I tried really hard to take in the scenery on the trip, I even sat right at the front for a panoramic view. But I slept for Australia, as always, and before I knew it I was in Washington D.C. I was going to stay at Hosteling International, which I'd pre-booked, but after 45 MINUTES waiting for the elevator to my top-floor room there (I am not even exaggerating, I waited with my pack on for 45 minutes before they finally agreed to see if the elevator was broken, which it was) I got a refund and went down the road. I stayed at DC Lofty, which was a really lovely hostel. So my recommendation, don't stay at Hosteling International in Washington, stay at DC Lofty.

By a stroke of luck/coincidence, my friend Reece was also in Washington D.C. at the time. Reece was in the U.S. as the Youth Ambassador for the City of Perth. If you want to read a proper blog about traveling to the U.S., I recommend you visit Reece's. Reece, I discovered, is my perfect travel buddy. Whereas I had rocked up without any plans or even ideas about what I would do there (so there's the White House, and um...), he had it all covered. I am going to put this down to the fact that he was there a few days before me, and that he had an obligation to the City of Perth to be productive with his time. Reece and I also have many shared interests including beautiful houses and gardens, nice eats and a generally leftist opinion on all topics.

I recommend making the most of the bike rentals in Washington D.C., $5 for 24 hours! We did a great night-tour of the monuments and war memorials, with Reece as my trusty guide. We also tried to bike-chase the President's motorcade but we never found the epicenter of all the sirens. So close! We ate delicious food at fancy places, visited museums, did a tour of the library and also attended a book launch (read: free lunch). A busy couple of days, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I really like Washington D.C., and will be heading back there in a couple of days. I could easily pass a lot of time there.

All this productive blogging is exhausting me (I have the flu). Here's the photos...